这笑话同学们看过了没……

看来很多香水方面的知识，我本人也是误区多多啊，恩呀呀，好好学习，天天向上

耶悉茗J:我在Perfume Shrine的一篇文章里面看到过，因为手腕内部与其他部位皮肤比起来PH值较低，可能会导致一些香水味道出现偏差，而这一条的消息来源是JCE

文章如下，我英文水平太臭，只能看懂个大概，麻烦高手给翻译一下，谢谢啦


Frequent Questions: How & Where to Apply Perfume Effectively

How do you apply your perfume? Do you spritz on neck and wrists? Do you spray a cloud and walk through the mist? Do you dab from an old style splash bottle? Is there a wrong way to apply perfume? The method of application influences the way a fragrance smells and projects into the environment much more than what is called "body chemistry". Let's do some myth busting on this proper perfume application guide and suggest new and exciting ways to maximize your chosen perfume's potential, helping it expand at the pace you're comfortable with and last through the day.

Let's start with the most common myth: That perfume smells best on pulse points, specifically the wrists and behind the ears. Though it's a nice spot to bring up to your nose gingerly, you might be doing yourself a disservice. According to renowed perfumer Jean Claude Ellena (current in-house perfumer for Hermès) the Ph of the skin on the inside of the wrists can be a bit acidic/sour, thus subtly swifting the aroma of your fragrance. This is especially crucial with fragrant compositions which present tart or floral notes. Additionally, wrists are the places we often wear a wristwatch, bracelets or other jewelry and use to rest our hand on a mouse pad/handrest. These are materials which can also influence the scent of your perfume. A metallic watch or bracelet interacts subtle, while a leather band lends its own inherent aroma to the mix (sometimes in a good way and sometimes in a bad way). Not to mention that in the case of a mouse pad the transfering of different perfumes ends up in a haphazard mix-up rather than a deliberate olfactory collage.

A better area to use, if you want to be able to lift up your fragranced body part to your nose at any given time to enjoy, is the upper hand or upper forearm. Not only are these areas with a more consistent Ph acidity with the rest of your body, giving you a truer picture, the existence of slight fuzz (or actual hair for the gents) aids the projection of the fragrance to those around, prolongs its lasting power and aids its wake (what the French call "sillage").

Behind the ear is a rather bad place for perfume, too even if very evocative, immortalised in hunderds of advertisements and films due to its erotic significance of ear lobe kissing & suckling, because at the back of the ears there are glands which produce an oily-smelling substance which distorts your posh perfume. You can judge just how much your own glands produce by rubbing a wet towel behind that spot and sniffing (or giving a long sniff at the sidebands of your spectacles/sunglasses). Heavy consumers of dairy products will notice a curdled milk, butyric note that is rather displeasant (and which prompts the Japanese to consider Westerners as "dirty"-smelling). Those who eat a lot of spice will have a production of sulphurous byproducts which can make their fragrance smell rotten, heavy or sour.

The best practice is to forsake behind the ears application for the front of the neck (assuming you don't wear neck jewelry, especially pearls which get tarnished by perfumes). This also aids the trailing of your fragrance during social hallos, as the scent rises uniformly during being given kisses to the cheeks.

Spraying in a cloud in front of you and then walking through the scent mist to get just the right amount is a technique which began by the launch of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique in 1971. This method was especially divised to cater for the bombastic blast of this superperfume and was then transfered through all of the Lauder Group companies.

It is rather wasteful so best used for anything that has a projection and trail as big as a house (most Estée Lauder scents indeed), so it's perfect for Angel and the like if you're wary of offending but still want to wear such a powerhouse. (In the case of Angel, even waving a Q-tip soaked in it in front of you is enough to transfer enough scent for you to smell of it!). Use it if you're adamant that spraying in profusion is the last resort of luxurious abandon in a rationed age.

Another common myth says you're not supposed to spray on your clothes because that way perfume doesn't get the chance to interact with your skin. Though it is a wonderful, romantic notion, giving every woman the idea that her fragrance is hers alone, because magically the scent is different in accordance with one's skin, this is a marketing technique that was specifically conceived for Chanel No.5. To make the iconic Chanel perfume regain a bit of its individual cachet after the mass popularisation of it, following its exhibition in the army shelves market during the 1950s, some new approach was needed. According to author Tilar Mazzeo, in her book about the venerable classic and its history, the Wertheimer brothers devised this plan to make No.5 not lose its sense of being a precious commodity even though it had become a bit too accessible. (This was a concern after the infamous days of American GIs photographed standing in a long line to claim a bottle of the classic perfume at the Parisian boutique during Nazi-occupied France). The plan worked: The marketing line was added even into commercials well into the 1970s and Chanel never became Coty or Dana. Most contemporary fragrances -excluding all-naturals artisanal perfumes and a few with a particularly high ratio of natural ingredients in them- small exactly the same on most skins. Think about it; this is why we're so quick to recognise their trail on a stranger on the street or across the cinema!

Therefore, unless we're talking vividly coloured juice (such as Serge Lutens Sarassins which is deep purple and stains like ink would), you're quite safe with spraying your clothes (apart from silks). If in doubt, a small secret patch test on an inside corner will convince you. Perfume is retained best on cloth, especially natural fibers (linen, cotton, wool) and rich aroma materials such as vanilla, amber, resins and balsams of the oriental & floriental family (hence the concept of "cashmere wrap fragrances" or "scents on a wool scarf").

One especially neat idea is spraying the flanks of your body, extra handy when wearing a jacket, as the natural movement of your arms brushing off when walking releases and re-releases fragrant molecules as you go through your day. Yet another nice spot is under the jacket lapels, or spraying a handerchief and tucking it in your breast pocket. Spraying your clothes also presents the advantage of extending the perfume progression's arc, making the notes appear in slow motion; especially nice with fragrances with complex bouquets and full-bodied character in which you want to savour every phase.

Skin does play a role into how scent "holds", but not how you think it does! In the movie Chéri (based on Colette's novel by the same name) the older courtesan, played by Cathy Bates, says to her -poignantly coming to terms with aging- peer Michelle Pfeiffer (as Lea) "you retain perfume so much better now that the skin isn't as smooth as it used to be". This very characteristic observation of La Belle Epoque is also confirmed by top perfumers working today, who add that the same applies to people with big pores; which -I infer- might explain just why oily skin (which often is more "porous"/bigger-pored by nature) retains scent better and longer. It might also explain why some obese people are considered "smelly" by some in the general population (it's not that they don't wash enough, but sweat might get trapped in skin folds).

The fascinating part is it all turns out to be a matter of simple physics, rather than of chemistry!


Hair is a particularly good spot for perfume. Sales assistants might say anything to discourage you from it (from implying your hair might catch fire if a stranger holding a lit cigarette stands close enough, to saying it will completely dry out your hair and wreck it). They're in the business to sell as much products as possible and there are now hundreds of hair mists and hair enhancing scented sprays to buy (incidentally, notably good are those in the Thierry Mugler, Narciso Rodriguez and Chanel ranges, quite true to the actual perfumes). Buy them if it makes you feel all pampered up and you're a completist, but if not, you're just as well with spraying your hair brush or doing a quick spritz/dab on the nape, letting hair pick up the scent and release it with every move of your head. Frederic Malle agrees: "For a special occasion, apply perfume on the back of your neck. The heat rising up your body and the movement of your hair will diffuse the scent. Also, the oil in your hair is a fabulous fragrance keeper, so you could spray some in your hair too. Just don't do it every day because the alcohol will dry out your hair." [source]

Pop perfume lore handed down by sales assistants tells not to rub your wrists together when you apply perfume "because you'll crush its molecules". Nothing could be further from the truth! Molecules are not that sensitive to physics, otherwise the time-space continuum would have been shattered long ago. The most you're going to do is annihilate the top notes through friction (which generates heat, which in turn will aid the rapid evaporation of the most volatile ingredients in the perfume, the so called "top notes"). You're essentially losing the introduction to your personal fragrance. Given that many modern fragrances are specifically conceived to display a particularly attractive overture so as to catch the attention of potential consumers, it's a shame missing it! On the other hand, this is a quick & practical way to judge the "heart notes" or "core" of a fragrance (the middle stage) you're eager to get into, when pressed for time. It will give you an immediate idea of what it's about beyond the usual 30-minute window frame given for the dissipation of the top notes. Proceed accordingly.


When not wanting to offend with your fragrance in an office setting or in close proximity with other people or in hot weather, you might want to consider other tricks to tone down your perfume's potency. One simple trick is to spray your calves (not the back side of the knees when it's really hot, as these naturally sweat a lot when we bend them to sit down) and let the perfume rise slowly. Since noses are stuck in the place they are and you're typically not dealing with midgets, most people will get a small amount of rising perfume and not a full blast coming off the neck and decolletage. Another, especially welcome tip for romantic rendez-vous is spraying your belly-button (make sure it's free of lint too!) or under the breasts (or the equivalent spot for men): The belly is warm, the scent rises uniformely and you're guaranteed a restrained sillage that gets more intimate & intriguing as clothes get off....

Last but not least, there is "the cotton ball technique" of applying perfume. This does not consist of dragging a perfume-soaked piece of cotton wool on your body to spread the scent. You would be wasting precious juice that way, as cotton wool is so very absorbent. Instead you're supposed to lightly soak the cotton ball with fragrance and then tuck it inside your bra. This provides a subtle scent that you yourself can perceive at all times (a little tilting of the head can confirm it) while it doesn't suffocate everyone around.

Back in the old days they had a more romantic technique; dabbing from a dab-on extrait de parfum bottle using a silk handerchief which was then used to simply aromatize the insides of a feminine purse. Isn't it totally sublime? That way you're not conteminating the perfume with skin debris from your fingers or through transfering with the perfume dauber/stopper and you have a scented memento you can toss at any aspiring beau....


Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Perfume Myth Busting, How French Women Apply Perfume.

耶悉茗J:另外，某些香原料中可能会出现光敏性物质，比如天然的香柠檬(bergamot)精油，直接暴露在阳光下确实容易晒出问题……但是现在已经有了通过技术加工去除掉了这些光敏性物质的产品。酒精斑的说法没听说过无法判断真伪……


关于酒精斑，我个人觉得，酒精是容易挥发的吧，倒是有可能带走一些皮肤上的水分，或者会引起皮肤瘙痒，但是干裂什么的，就吓人了……这要皮肤失水到什么程度……皮肤自己也有一个调节补水功能的吧。日晒形成酒精斑，那是要晒多久，香水里的酒精喷洒在皮肤上，面积大加上体温，应该很快就挥发了吧。倒是光敏性物质靠谱点……
说的不对的地方，欢迎大家强烈指正

请教不敢当，我还有很多不懂的，还好身边有很多懂行的朋友帮忙，大家一起好好学习吧

这话没错，没有人天生就是专家的，都是通过学习、碰钉子、出错、知错、再学习……这么一路走过来的。话说我以前不知道香水无所谓保质期这回事（前提是保存得当），一直在纠结香水过期怎么办，还发帖子质疑过草莓的香水批号神马的，发誓赌咒说再不上草莓。可现在我是个老草莓了，如今回头看以前的那个帖子，真的挺可笑的为免误人子弟，那个质疑的帖子我已经申请删除了。

至于那个营销微博，其实他们是不用脑子复制黏贴的，发的微博前后矛盾，有些是再明显不过的香水名出错（有图片写着名字还标错），再加上好几万粉丝的不分辨不负责任转发，我觉得还是不好，有点像微博谣言的性质。如果这样没关系，那也用不着微博辟谣、谣言粉碎机了不是？

是啊，香水其实和翡翠差不多，绝大多数顾客其实不需要知道新种老种水头颜色这些东西，基本是看推荐、款式和价格的（就跟买香水看香水瓶、牌子和广告差不多）。我老公也告诫过我，别人叫你看东西，你就别说大实话，只要说很好很漂亮值这个价就够了。挠头，好吧，这也是我一个毛病，既然知道了一些事，总是要忍不住说出来四处晃荡（被我老公笑过喜欢半桶水晃荡）

不过我觉得，有人感兴趣看了，知道一个算一个吧，把这些谬误当成笑话看，我认为更容易让人记住，不是有一种表达方式叫做吐槽嘛
我很喜欢边吐槽边学习的这次也学到新知识了

香水……很多颜色的，黄，粉红，淡绿，紫色，棕色，淡蓝色……

这是不是一种理解错误呢？我好像没有嘲笑、或者冷嘲热讽盲目转发错误帖子的同学啊，我只是单纯吐槽那个营销微博，在说那个营销微博发错误信息的危害性而已啊我可没把营销微博当成新人看待哦他们只是复读机而已

我已经说了，大家都是从新人一步一步走来的，有错误有误区在所难免啊，大家吐个槽笑一笑，就此学点东西知道了，不是很好嘛

至于香水香料毒性什么的，国际上已经禁了不少香料了，说起来，接触这些香料最多的好像应该是调香师吧（我知道的不多，不过好像都还满长寿的）。真到批量生产的香水里，香料含量已经非常低了，除非你每天用个几百毫升……

至于化学合成，我曾经和咬咬、D他们说笑过，我们其实是对着一堆化学分子式在YY啊
化学合成和天然成分哪个更安全，好像目前还没有定论……

话说现在水沫子居然也被炒高价了，什么世界啊……

06年无色的玻璃种还不怎么值钱呢，你看现在价格涨的……蹭蹭的……炒得厉害
我很后悔当初没多收几个……
06年你高3……扶墙……我果然老了……

Let's start with the most common myth: That perfume smells best on pulse points, specifically the wrists and behind the ears. Though it's a nice spot to bring up to your nose gingerly, you might be doing yourself a disservice. According to renowed perfumer Jean Claude Ellena (current in-house perfumer for Hermès) the Ph of the skin on the inside of the wrists can be a bit acidic/sour, thus subtly swifting the aroma of your fragrance. This is especially crucial with fragrant compositions which present tart or floral notes. Additionally, wrists are the places we often wear a wristwatch, bracelets or other jewelry and use to rest our hand on a mouse pad/handrest. These are materials which can also influence the scent of your perfume. A metallic watch or bracelet interacts subtle, while a leather band lends its own inherent aroma to the mix (sometimes in a good way and sometimes in a bad way). Not to mention that in the case of a mouse pad the transfering of different perfumes ends up in a haphazard mix-up rather than a deliberate olfactory collage.

我凑合着翻一下吧……这段大概意思是，最常见的说法，香水喷在脉搏处，手腕和耳后是最好的地方。其实不然，JCE（爱马仕的鼻子）说，手腕皮肤的PH值偏酸，会对香水的香味有影响。而且手腕上我们经常戴手表啊手镯啊珠宝啊之类的，还会把手放在鼠标垫啊扶手啊这些地方，皮革金属这些都会影响你手腕上香水的味道。鼠标垫上更是会混杂了各种香水，然后再蹭回到你的手腕上。

所以手腕上其实不太适合喷香水，并不是因为毒素侵入大动脉的原因

A better area to use, if you want to be able to lift up your fragranced body part to your nose at any given time to enjoy, is the upper hand or upper forearm. Not only are these areas with a more consistent Ph acidity with the rest of your body, giving you a truer picture, the existence of slight fuzz (or actual hair for the gents) aids the projection of the fragrance to those around, prolongs its lasting power and aids its wake (what the French call "sillage").

这段有些词我看的不是很明白，大概是说，手背（不知道对不对……）和前臂上的皮肤PH值和身体的PH值大致相同，有助于向周围的人发散香味（？），还能延长留香时间（？）【啊，这段真是……

Behind the ear is a rather bad place for perfume, too even if very evocative, immortalised in hunderds of advertisements and films due to its erotic significance of ear lobe kissing & suckling, because at the back of the ears there are glands which produce an oily-smelling substance which distorts your posh perfume. You can judge just how much your own glands produce by rubbing a wet towel behind that spot and sniffing (or giving a long sniff at the sidebands of your spectacles/sunglasses). Heavy consumers of dairy products will notice a curdled milk, butyric note that is rather displeasant (and which prompts the Japanese to consider Westerners as "dirty"-smelling). Those who eat a lot of spice will have a production of sulphurous byproducts which can make their fragrance smell rotten, heavy or sour.

大致意思是，耳后也不是适合喷香水的地方，因为耳后有腺体，分泌物会影响香水的气味

The best practice is to forsake behind the ears application for the front of the neck (assuming you don't wear neck jewelry, especially pearls which get tarnished by perfumes). This also aids the trailing of your fragrance during social hallos, as the scent rises uniformly during being given kisses to the cheeks.

喷香水最好的地方是前颈部，当然，脖子上戴着饰品的就要小心了，尤其是珍珠之类的，香水会让珍珠黯然失色

Spraying in a cloud in front of you and then walking through the scent mist to get just the right amount is a technique which began by the launch of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique in 1971. This method was especially divised to cater for the bombastic blast of this superperfume and was then transfered through all of the Lauder Group companies.

It is rather wasteful so best used for anything that has a projection and trail as big as a house (most Estée Lauder scents indeed), so it's perfect for Angel and the like if you're wary of offending but still want to wear such a powerhouse. (In the case of Angel, even waving a Q-tip soaked in it in front of you is enough to transfer enough scent for you to smell of it!). Use it if you're adamant that spraying in profusion is the last resort of luxurious abandon in a rationed age.

这段，是对“穿过香水雨”这种喷发的评价，这种做法最早是1971年倩碧出品Aromatics Elixir时，推广的做法，因为英语水平太臭，我也只能说个大概意思。首先这方法相当地浪费，后面……其实我后面没怎么看懂求高手

我忽然想到以前不知在哪里看到的（或许是搜狐香版），也忘了是谁说的笑话。因为痞子蔡（蔡智恒）1998年小说《第一次的亲密接触》中的角色——轻舞飞扬——就是这么喷香水的，好像她用的是迪奥的快乐之源，于是有人说，轻舞飞扬其实是被香水熏死的……
这种喷法，恐怕还是要看香水味道是浓烈还是清淡来区别使用的吧

我还没闻过Angel，所以不知道：p
或许对重口来说，Angel不算浓烈？

这么说我理解错了？文里的意思是，香水雨的喷法可以降低重口香的浓烈气味？
哎呀呀，好丢人现眼