文本选自：The Guardian（卫报）
作者：Zoe Wood
原文标题：Fashion’s efforts to go green cancelled out by shopaholics
原文发布时间：7 Nov. 2023
Fashion's efforts to go green cancelled out by shopaholics
A fashion industry push to reduce the environmental impact of the clothing it sells is being undermined by an ongoing addiction to buying new clothes, with the average Briton buying 28 items every year. While the companies involved have managed to reduce both the carbon intensity and volume of water per tonne used in their clothing manufacture, in its annual progress report, published today, the climate action NGO warns of hard-won gains being "cancelled out" because clothing production is "spiralling upwards".
Textiles and fashion are responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions. Catherine David, Wrap's director of behaviour change and business programmes, said the progress made by 130 brands and retailers involved showed "it's possible to change this". But that at the moment, "as fast as positive improvements happen, they're cancelled out by rising production".
The companies had reduced the carbon impact of their textiles by 12% and water by 4% (on a per-tonne basis) between 2019 and 2022. However, this was negated by a 13% increase in the volume of textiles produced and sold, according to the report. The increased production rates meant overall water use actually rose by 8% over the period, while the carbon reduction figure stood at just 2%. Since production is obviously related to consumption, David said consumers had a part to play. "We're working with companies to improve clothes, but the other part of the equation is our role as shoppers, " she said. "We buy more clothes than any other nation in Europe."
时尚与环保：时尚的环保努力被购物狂抵消了
精听党背景导读
环保时装的概念由来已久。早在1962年，美国生物学家Rachel Carson在她的著作《Silent Spring》中提出，广泛使用化学农药，不但影响了环境和社会，同时也会影响人类活动，包括日常所需的服装。
人们对环保的探讨兜兜转转，从关注重工业开始，到了上世纪九十年代初，终于有人有系统地将环保和服装制造产业联系起来。1992年经由15个国家知名纺织检定机构测试和认证，成立了OEKO-TEX STANDARD100纺织品生态标签，关注环保的纺织原材料。“回归自然”也开始成为时装设计师喜用的设计主题。如今，环保时装已不再稀奇，不少品牌和环保组织参与其中。
文本选自：The Guardian（卫报）作者：Zoe Wood原文标题：Fashion’s efforts to go green cancelled out by shopaholics原文发布时间：7 Nov. 2023关键词：环保 时尚 消费者
精听党带着问题听
1.“购物狂”用英语可以如何表达？2. 如何理解第一段的“hard-won”？3. 纺织业和时尚业占全球碳排放量的多少？
精听党选段赏析
标题解读
Fashion’s efforts to go green cancelled out by shopaholics
时尚的环保努力被购物狂抵消了
go green 绿色环保；更多地采取行动来保护自然和环境；1. We should all try to go green and reduce our carbon footprint. 我们都应该尝试去保护环境，减少碳排放。
cancel out 取消；抵消；
shopaholic n. 购物狂；1. You're a shopaholic! 你是一个购物狂！
段一
A fashion industry push to reduce the environmental impact of the clothing it sells is being undermined by an ongoing addiction to buying new clothes, with the average Briton buying 28 items every year. While the companies involved have managed to reduce both the carbon intensity and volume of water per tonne used in their clothing manufacture, in its annual progress report, published today, the climate action NGO warns of hard-won gains being “cancelled out” because clothing production is “spiralling upwards”.
fashion industry 时尚产业；1. The fashion industry is constantly evolving and setting new trends. 时尚产业不断发展变化，不断创造新的潮流。
push n. 矢志的追求；坚定的努力；
environmental impact 环境影响；
undermine vt. 逐渐损毁；暗中破坏；
ongoing adj. 持续存在的，不断发展的；
addiction n. 瘾；入迷，嗜好；1. He is now fighting his addiction to alcohol. 他现在正努力戒酒。
Briton n. 英国人；
item n. 项目，条款；一件商品（或物品）；
involved adj. 卷入的，参与的；
carbon intensity 碳强度；1. We need to reduce carbon intensity to combat climate change. 为了应对气候变化，我们需要降低碳强度。
volume n. 体积，容积；总数，总量；
clothing manufacture 制衣；
climate action 气候行动；
NGO abbr. 非政府组织（Non-Governmental Organization）；
hard-won adj. 来之不易的；难得的；
spiralling upwards 螺旋式上升；1. The cost of living in this city is spiralling upwards. 这个城市的生活成本正在螺旋式上升。
参考译文
时尚界一直在努力减少其销售的服装对环境的影响，但人们对购买新衣服的痴迷却削弱了这一努力，英国人平均每年购买28件新衣服。在今日发布的年度进展报告中，尽管相关企业在服装生产过程中成功降低了碳排放强度和每吨用水量，但气候行动非政府组织警告称，由于服装生产正在“螺旋式上升”，来之不易的成果正被“抵消”。
段二
Textiles and fashion are responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions. Catherine David, Wrap’s director of behaviour change and business programmes, said the progress made by 130 brands and retailers involved showed “it’s possible to change this”. But that at the moment, “as fast as positive improvements happen, they’re cancelled out by rising production”.
textile n. 纺织品；纺织业；
global carbon emissions 全球碳排放；
director n. 管理者，负责人地；
business programme n. 商业节目；
retailer n. 零售商，零售店；讲述者；
参考译文
纺织业和时尚业占全球碳排放量的10%。Wrap的行为改变和商业项目主管凯瑟琳·大卫表示，130个参与其中的品牌和零售商取得的进展表明，“改变这种状况是可能的”。但就目前而言，“积极的改善发生得越快，它们就会被不断上升的产量所抵消”。
段三
The companies had reduced the carbon impact of their textiles by 12% and water by 4% (on a per-tonne basis) between 2019 and 2022. However, this was negated by a 13% increase in the volume of textiles produced and sold, according to the report. The increased production rates meant overall water use actually rose by 8% over the period, while the carbon reduction figure stood at just 2%. Since production is obviously related to consumption, David said consumers had a part to play. “We’re working with companies to improve clothes, but the other part of the equation is our role as shoppers,” she said. “We buy more clothes than any other nation in Europe.”
negate vt. 否定，使无效，取消；
production rate 生产速率；
overall adj. 总的，全面的；所有的；
over the period 在一段时间内；
carbon reduction 碳减排；
be related to 与…有关；
consumption n. 消费，消耗；
equation n.（必须考虑多种因素的）复杂局面（或问题），制衡局面；
参考译文
在2019年至2022年期间，这些公司将纺织品的碳影响减少了12%，用水量减少了4%（以每吨为基础）。然而，根据该报告，纺织品的产销量增长了13%，抵消了这一增长。生产率的提高意味着，在此期间，总体用水量实际上增加了8%，而碳减排数字仅为2%。大卫说，由于生产显然与消费有关，消费者也有作用。她说：“我们正在与公司合作改善服装，但制衡的另一部分是我们作为购物者的角色。我们买的衣服比欧洲任何一个国家都多。”
精听党每日单词
go green
绿色环保；更多地采取行动来保护自然和环境；
cancel out
取消；抵消；
shopaholic
/ˌʃɑːpəˈhɑːlɪk/ n. 购物狂；
fashion industry
时尚产业；
push
/pʊʃ/ n. 矢志的追求；坚定的努力；
environmental impact
环境影响；
undermine
/ˌʌndərˈmaɪn/ vt. 逐渐损毁；暗中破坏；
ongoing
/ˈɑːnɡoʊɪŋ/ adj. 持续存在的，不断发展的；
addiction
/əˈdɪkʃ(ə)n/ n. 瘾；入迷，嗜好；
Briton
/ˈbrɪtn/ n. 英国人；
item
/ˈaɪtəm/ n. 项目，条款；一件商品（或物品）；
involved
/ɪnˈvɑːlvd/ adj. 卷入的，参与的；
carbon intensity
碳强度；
volume
/ˈvɑːljəm/ n. 体积，容积；总数，总量；
clothing manufacture
制衣；
climate action
气候行动；
NGO
abbr. 非政府组织（Non-Governmental Organization）；
hard-won
/ˌhɑːrd ˈwʌn/ adj. 来之不易的；难得的；
spiralling upwards
螺旋式上升；
textile
/ˈtekstaɪl/ n. 纺织品；纺织业；
global carbon emissions
全球碳排放；
director
/dəˈrektər/ n. 管理者，负责人地；
business programme
n. 商业节目；
retailer
/ˈriːteɪlər/ n. 零售商，零售店；讲述者；
negate
/nɪˈɡeɪt/ vt. 否定，使无效，取消；
production rate
生产速率；
overall
/ˌoʊvərˈɔːl/ adj. 总的，全面的；所有的；
over the period
在一段时间内；
carbon reduction
碳减排；
be related to
与…有关；
consumption
/kənˈsʌmpʃ(ə)n/ n. 消费，消耗；
equation
/ɪˈkweɪʒ(ə)n/ n.（必须考虑多种因素的）复杂局面（或问题），制衡局面；
精听党文化拓展
时装产业每年生产数量庞大的消费品，造成的环境影响不可小觑。时装业的产业链也是漫长的，从产生设计理念开始，就已经对环境带来不少影响，接着是原材料的采用、纺织厂制造、运输和销售，每年造成的污染和浪费不计其数。世界自然基金会（WWF）的数据显示，每制造一件棉T恤，其生产过程就要花费2700公升的水，全球每年纺织业的用水量达到387万亿公升，其他环节的用水量更是难以估量。
香港理工大学纺织及服装系教授胡金莲向记者表示，现时服装的环保问题主要体现在开始制造生产时的纺织材料及其后续处理中。她举例说，“纺织品的原材料染色和整理过程中，会使用大量的水资源，排放造成水污染。很多纺织材料的加工过程已经不断改进，会使用溶剂染色或者使用超临界流体染色等方法。”
许多环保人士倡议使用纯天然、可再生的材料，例如有机棉花、丝绸等，因为这些材料往往来自常见的植物。但是，天然材料的弊病也显而易见。胡金莲以纯棉和丝绸的衣物为例，指其材质脆弱，使用周期比较短，更可能造成另一种浪费。另外，种植天然材料，或会使用农药和化肥，改变土质，这些方面也需要考虑。
人造材料保存时间较长，很多性能较为稳定，因此，现在衣物纺织品中近半数是涤纶，工业用纺织领域中可能使用量更大。但这些材料往往来自塑料等不能再生的材料，因此也成为破坏环境的一大元凶。
服装经过使用过后，回收和妥善处理是另一个关乎环保的环节。根据环境保护署的统计数据，2017年香港每日被运往堆填区的纺织物约有370公吨，相当于每分钟丢弃1500件T恤，占整个都市固体废弃物的3.4%。香港绿色和平去年的一项调查显示，受访者每年购买约18件衣物，每四件当中有一件穿少于两次就被丢弃，四成人平均穿着同一件衣物亦不过五次。
精听党每日美句
"Begin with the end in mind." - Stephen R. Covey
“以终为始。”——斯蒂芬·R·柯维